27 to 29 May – The Caspian Sea (Azerbaijan to Turkmenistan)

Opiates of any derivative (codeine, tramadol) are not allowed in Turkmenistan so in Baku we all checked our stocks of medicine and with the help of Jackie removed any suspect medicines which Helen gave to a local doctor for further use. People on previous trips had been found with the drugs in various forms and had been fined $250 besides the trip being held up for 24 hours. The fact that the authorities had changed the rules without anyone knowing had no bearing on the outcome. 

The 'flame towers' shown below were seen on the way out into the Caspian Sea. They are the result of 10,000 led lights on three buildings in Baku, the pointy ones shown in the last blog, and illuminate every night.

Early on the morning of 27th Rogan and Helen were off to the port to try and book us onto a ferry to Turkmenistan. We were to stay in the hotel until 11 am when they expected to have found out what was to happen. Nothing! then at midday we were told to pack everything and be ready to be picked up at half past midday to go down to the docks. At the docks some sat in a shed in the shade, others under a tree and did exercises. There was a white mulberry tree there with ripe fruit so that kept me busy eating the berries for a while.

Our ferry at the old port

Waiting patiently

The truck was in quarantine at this time ready to go on the ferry so access to it was restricted. We could see the ferry unloading railway wagons and were then told that the ferry would be moved to another wharf for loading, us included. We all piled onto the truck and following a guide travelled to the other wharf and waited again. It was now 3.30pm but at least this time we were allowed to sit on the truck and walk around a little bit but not get in anyone's way. It was not understood why but greatly appreciated, when we were given tickets for a free dinner in the port workers dining room, a meal of cold soup, chicken pieces, beef stew, salad and rice. I still have to check if Anita and Suzanne did eat a tin of cat food thinking that it was tuna earlier on in the day!

mv Professor Gul

Waiting

At 11.30pm we boarded the ferry, the Professor  Gul, were allocated cabins and at 30 minutes after midnight set sail                       for Turkmenistan. One little problem though (at least to start) we were allocated six double bunk cabins for 12 people. The married couples had three cabins leaving three cabins for three single men and three single ladies. I ended up in a cabin with Suzanne, THE SNORER! I think that we were all relieved that we were not put four to a cabin as there were four bunks in each one. 

On the way, calm seas

Breakfast was fried eggs with a very tasty sausage cut into it for US$5, definitely increasing the cook’s wages. Vodka and beer was available for breakfast if required as well! I was first into the dining room and he made quite a fuss about making me chai (tea). He first put hot water into the pot, swilled it round, tipped it out, added more hot water then tea leaf, let it sit for a few minutes, added more hot water and let it sit again, put some in a glass and looked at it and obviously not satisfied poured it back into the pot, let it all sit again, poured more into the glass and then checked, it was satisfactory and then I was allowed to touch the glass. Not what I expected on an Azerbaijan registered and crewed ship. The tea was lovely! I put my sugar in the glass but the correct was is to hold a sugar lump in the teeth and drink the tea through the sugar lump.

I liked the tea pot

With nothing much to do most people sat on deck, caught up with sleep or wandered around. I was able to go and have a look in the engine room with 30 year old MAN engines to be seen, very interesting. For those who are likely to ask, the ship had two main engines of 4500kW each  turning at 220rpm driving a controllable pitch propeller with no gearbox between the engine and propeller shaft. There are also side thrusters installed in the ship and ship power is provided by a further three 600kW diesel engines.

I remember it well

Main engine

Bridge

Bar

Helen, Rogan, me and Tom.

The crossing to the anchorage for Turkmenbasi Port was calm and quiet and at arriving at the anchorage at 2.30pm we were told that the port was closed for an unknown period due to the presence of the President of Turkmenistan being in the town. Helen organised a dinner of chicken and chips with the cook for $US7 and we were told that we would stay at the anchorage till  probably late tomorrow night. That meant tonight was party night and the least said the better!  The crew did all right catching fish off the stern though. We have not been able to find out why the showers on the ship are locked and as it is hot sitting out here in the anchorage the ladies are perspiring and the men sweating. A shower seems like heaven at the moment.

Anita fishing, or something!

Someone must had taken pity on us as one shower has been opened, and now well used. We anchored off the port until 3.45pm before going alongside and starting the customs and immigration procedure which lasted two hours, not too bad at all. By now it was 11.15pm and as we had been told that trucks were not allowed on the highways at night (too many camels on the road so it seems) we were allowed to put up our tents in the port car park, something not enjoyed by all. The wind was quite fierce with tents being blown away as they were being put up and after preparing some food  I was in my tent at half past midnight knowing that I had to be up at 5.30am to prepare breakfast as we had an early start in the morning to drive right through to Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan, something like a 12 hour trip.

Nearly there

The tug, Gayrat.

Car park camping site

Scrap