Welsh Davids Silk Road and beyond: 12 to 15 June – Fergana (Uzbekistan) to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)

Prior leaving the hotel in the morning we had been asked to check that no-one had any Xanax or other nasty drugs on the truck as the regulations for Kyrgyzstan had changed again. (Just to be on the safe side people did get rid of what may have caused a problem then found out that they needed them again once we had crossed the border. Later doctors prescriptions were obtained to replace the drugs in the country), Leaving the Taj Mahal Hotel (the name conjures up exotic possibilities but you and I would be wrong) we headed for the Uzbekistan/Kyrgyzstan border (in taxis as buses and trucks carrying passengers were not allowed on the road) along the Fergana Highway. There were a few police check points on the way supposedly because the road was dangerous but I have seen and driven on much worse.

A view along the highway

Looking down Kamchik Pass

Hire my binoculars or else!

This is eagle country

Crossing both borders at Andi Jon/Dostuk was not a problem taking 2 hours and 45 minutes in all, and it was very hot even waiting in the shade. On entry into Uzbekistan we had to fill in customs forms in duplicate, one being given back to us. Leaving the country a similar form had to be filled in remembering that the money held at entry should be more than the money declared on exit. It really did not cause a problem. We also picked up a new guide, Farhad, at the border.

Advertising on the hills

Advertising on the hills

Someone mentioned seeing candy floss which made me realise that there was a lot to be seen in both Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan, sometimes on a stick and sometimes as a block 200mm x 200mm x 75mm, a sticky block so it seemed. We stopped of in Osh, another Silk Road town at least 3000 years old. It has the largest outdoor market in Central Asia and which has been renamed the Great Silk Road Bazaar. This city was also a centre for silk production at the time of 8th century.

In Fergana

Local people in Fergana

A lunch stop, not enlarged so as not to frighten viewers

I was having trouble with an insect bite (possibly a snake bite) on my ankle so went to a chemist to get some medicines. I did not feel too good either. Anyway, over the rest of the day my ankle swelled up and did not look good. I was excused truck duties and put on sick call. That evening we camped on the side of Andijan Reservoir, very quiet and later it cooled down enough that I had to wear a sweater.

There are plenty of cowboys around the place

Our camp site

Friday 13th, but touch wood no problems as yet. It is 7.45pm now, dinner is nearly ready and the beer fridge nearly empty. It’s tiring work talking and sitting in the shade beer is the only medicine. I don’t drink except for red wine and it’s too hot for that at the moment. We continued travelling along the A41/M41 road having lunch at the side of another reservoir. The road passes through high mountains, seemingly bare but covered in a low brush with very sharp spikes, even sharper than needles. Inter-spaced with the harsh mountains were patches of green where there was a farm or village. Along the road, around field and in the villages were growing poplar trees, grown for construction purposes as they were tall and straight. They can be cut after 4/5 years and were really noticeable travelling along the road. There was a fair amount of unfinished houses as well. The farmer normally has two houses, one in the village used mainly in the winter, and one at the farm used at other times. Young people are leaving the villages for the towns as is happening everywhere but the new buildings would be for those who remain in the village. Again the land is leased from the government but for 50 years here. Today we started to see snow on the mountain peaks giving an idea that we have higher mountains to cross before entering China.

A view along the highway

An ice cream stop (to buy ice-creams)

A view along the highway

Again we camped on the side of a reservoir (Toktogul) where I stripped down and had a bucket wash besides washing my clothes. There was a pleasant smell around as we had camped on a field of wild sage. There are are about twenty fold up chairs on the truck and someone had put a packet of crisps on one, looking as if it was reserved. I mentioned that they must have learnt from the Germans who are known for leaving towels on chairs. Rogan then said about a group of German tourists he was with one time. The truck had all new chairs delivered in bags and within two days each bag had the name of a German on it. They had not realised that they were on a truck for a few weeks only and nothing belonged to them anyway.

Will we be stopping here for the night? Yes we did!

Sunset

Sunset

Sunrise

I was lulled to sleep last night with the croaking of the frogs and Dave’s snoring then this morning woke up to the gobbling of the turkeys, roosters crowing, dogs barking, cows mooing and Dave still snoring. I'm in the wilds of Kyrgyzstan! We are to leave at 9.30 this morning so those that want can have a swim in the reservoir. Two did. Continuing (down or up) the Osh to Bishkek Highway the temperature reduced as we travelled over the Tor-Ashuu Pass at 3184 metres high. It was very rugged country, granite peaks with farmers and their animals out in the pastures as they move up into the hills when spring arrives so that there is feed for the animals. Some of us had lunch in a local eating spot, mutton that fell off the bone and raw onion with plenty of tea. On the way we travelled through a 3 kilometre tunnel built by the Soviets. It was only large enough for one car and one truck to pass side by side. Traffic light had been put at each end of the tunnel but they only controlled the trucks, cars could still drive against a red light so cars could go in each direction at once. I'm not sure how a truck, and two cars travelling opposite directions, manage in the middle of the tunnel. There was talk that if a vehicle was to break down in the tunnel then all in it were to make for the exits as quickly as possible as there was no ventilation in the tunnel and people have been known to have been asphyxiated there.

A view along the highway

Yurts

A view along the highway. This has not been corrected in any way and it was taken in colour.

Our lunch stop

Lunch of mutton and raw onions with plenty of tea with sugar, lovely!

Yurts up the mountain

And up and round we went

On the night of the 14th June we camped in a field at Sosnovka, about 100 kilometres from Bishkek. Just after the tents had been erected and the meal started there was light rain and a very strong wind. The wind continued for about five hours and nearly flattened some tents but we did not lose any over the fields.The strange thing was that when the wind stopped it did so almost instantly, gale force to nothing in minutes.

Deformed tent

Deformed tents

Then it was Bishkek the following morning. As it was a Sunday the town was quite quiet and pleasant to see and walk a little. That was after my ankle had been examined by a paramedic at the hotel (Asia Mountains) who then transported me to the local hospital in an ambulance with lights flashing and sirens going. I sat in a chair in the ambulance the guide/interpreter sat on the stretcher! It was thought that I had been bitten by an insect or snake but the doctor at the hospital said that it was blood poisoning or an allergic reaction to some local food. I ended up having three injections and a poultice of what was said to be a foul smelling paste, (only I could not smell anything), the poultice concoction being only available in the old Russian states having been discovered by a doctor here during the second World War. I was brought back to the hotel by ambulance, no lights or sirens this time. In all it took 90 minutes, cost US$50 (£30) and I was dealt with efficiently and was more than satisfied with the people who looked after me. I must say thank you to our guide, Farhad, who was with me all the time and acted as an interpretor.